Car And Truck Brake Parts

Brake Kit

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Brake Kit
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A brake bleeder (available at auto parts and Internet stores) is used to remove moisture, and expel contaminated brake fluid from the brake system. The brake fluid in a VW should be flushed every 24 months or two (2) years.

Step 1 - Drive the vehicle front wheels onto ramps (2)

Step 2 - Place the gear selector in "Park" or "1st Gear".

Step 3 - Place wheel chocks behind the two (2) rear wheels.

Step 4 - Place an oil pan under the passenger-side rear wheel.

Step 5 - Engage the hood lever lever in the cabin compartment.

Step 6 - Raise the engine hood.

Step 7 - Remove the brake reservoir cap (Yellow) by turning counter-clockwise.

Step 8 - Fill the reservoir with fresh VW Dot 4 brake fluid to the fill line.

Step 9 - Fill the reservoir of the brake bleeder pump with fresh VW Dot 4 brake fluid.

Step 10- Attach the plastic tubing (from kit) to the ports of the brake bleeder.

Step 11 - Attach the adapter cap (Red) to the master cylinder reservoir by turning clockwise until tight.

Step 12 - Pump the handle of the brake bleeder pump to pressurize the brake system.

Step 13 - Pump the handle of the pump until a reading between 12 and 15psi is shown on the gauge of the pump.

Step 14 - Place an oil drain pan under the passenger-side rear wheel.

Step 15 - Position the body or use a creeper under the passenger-side rear wheel.

Step 16 - Place a piece of plastic tubing (from kit) on the brake bleeder fitting.

Step 17 - Using a 9mm box wrench, loosen the bleeder fitting by turning counter-clockwise. one (1) turn.

Step 18 - The pressure from the pump will force discolored and contaminated brake fluid to enter the drain pan.

Step 19 - When there are no noticeable air bubbles and the brake fluid turns "clear", close the brake bleeder fitting.

Step 20 - Move the drain pan to the drivers-side rear wheel.

Step 21 - Repeat the steps above (14 through 19) on the drivers-side rear wheel.

Step 22 -Move the drain pan to the passenger-side front wheel.

Step 23 - Repeat the steps above (14 through 19) on the passenger-side front wheel.

Step 24 - Move the drain pan to the drivers-side front wheel.

Step 25 - Repeat the above steps (14 through 19) on the drivers-side front wheel.

Step 26 - Remove the drain pan, plastic tubing, and 9mm wrench from under the drivers-side front wheel.

Step 27 - Pour the contaminated brake fluid into a plastic container.for recycling.

Step 28 - Unscrew the adapter cap (Red) by turning counter-clockwise.

Step 29 - Attach the original brake reservoir cap (Yellow) by turning clockwise.

Step 30 - Remove the hoses to the brake bleeder and adapter and set pump aside.

Step 31 - Have an assistant apply pressure to the brake pedal and check for a firm pedal.

Step 32 - Check for fluid leaks at all four (4) wheels.

Step 33 - Close the engine hood.

Step 34 - Remove rear wheel chocks.

Step 35 - Back vehicle off ramps.

Step 36 - Road test vehicle.

Darell L. Rains Webmaster URL: http://www.vwtdirepair.com (Darell's VW TDI Maintenance Page)

Performance Brakes for Muscle Cars

You might have heard the old saying that before deciding to increase the horsepower of your vehicle, it is a good idea to bump up its stopping power. This is particularly true when it comes to muscle cars. Although muscle cars frequently come with gobs of V8 power, they are rarely champions at bringing all of that speed back down under control. You have to be even more wary of muscle cars from the 60s and 70s, which in some cases used drum brakes at all four corners.

Fortunately, there are some fairly inexpensive ways to improve the braking system of your car, and keep things from getting too out of hand at the end of the quarter mile. The first thing to start with is the brake pads. Stock brake pads are seriously incapable of handling high performance driving. The organic materials used in these types of pads are designed for low dust and long life perfect for a dealerships service department, but definitely not suited for giving you the bite on your brake rotors that you are looking for. It is very easy to exchange these for semi-metallic or ceramic brake pads, which cause more dust and are noisier, but which also dissipate heat much better. This means that there is less chance that the brakes will fade when you brake frantically while coming down a twisty mountain pass, ensuring consistent stopping power throughout a stretch of spirited driving.

You might want to add slotted or cross-drilled discs to your braking system as well. These types of discs have either etched grooves, or a pattern of holes drilled into them. Sometimes, they will have both. The theory behind this modification is that the slots and holes will help the brake to dissipate heat. On the street, you probably are not going to require this level of heat management, but if you like the look of this type of brake rotor, feel free to add it on as an aesthetic mod.

As mentioned above, if your muscle car harkens back to a bygone era, you are probably riding on drum brakes. These brakes are completely inadequate when it comes to stopping heavier performance machines, and are next to useless when mounted at all four wheels. There are several conversion kits available to add disc brakes to your cars front end, often using mounting hardware from similar models that came with the feature. Discs can also be added to the rear wheels. If you race your muscle car, then a disc brake conversion is a no-brainer.

Finally, while keeping on the subject of competition, brake fluid is something that you need to regularly change, particularly if you have been flogging your ride. Racing is hard on brake fluid, as the heat can cause it to vaporize and absorb moisture, making it less than effective. There are different types of performance brake fluids available with higher boiling points, making them excellent choices for track use. Make sure before you bleed and pour that any new brake fluid is compatible with your vehicles braking system as some types of fluid may have a detrimental effect on system hardware and seals.

About the Author

Justina Mathews writes issues that currently affect the performance car enthusiast. She also writes about issues that affect the street tuner industry, as well as import scene lifestyle. She's a staff writer for fuel systems.

Where can I get a wiring kit for brake lights?

I don't need a new chassis harness, just for my brake lights. I guess I do. Anyway, I found a painless wiring harness for my engine that is supposed to work with my E.C.M. and I found a transmission harness that will work with my 4L60E transmission. Now all I need to find is a brake wiring harness without having to replace the whole chassis harness.

Have you tried Summit?
They have alot of good stuff.

Scott SUB 10
Zippy urban ride

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