Car And Truck Brake Parts

Caliper Pads

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Caliper Pads
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Finishing sanders are used to produce the smoothest, finest finishes to your craft and carpentry projects. Helping craftsmen achieve the most seamless, professional results, finish sanders do a seriously good deed to the tool and woodworking community. To get the most unwaveringly, brilliantly smooth results, however, there are four finish sanders from Festool and Porter-Cable that truly cast shadows over the competition.

Festool brings craftsmen the Rotex RO 150 and the RTS 400 EQ finishing sanders - both of which are tools that are truly difficult to put down. The Rotex RO 150 is a heavy-duty, high-performance sander with the power to tackle any application and the refinement to do it with delicacy and style. It features a simple dual-sanding system which allows operators to sand in a random orbital mode for uncommonly fine sanding or switch into a gear-driven, aggressive mode for rapid stock removal. A (detachable) auxiliary handle provides you with greater control during these more aggressive sanding jobs. With variable speed control, constant speed under load, and thermal and over-load protection the sander can aggressively or delicately match each application. Despite this big power, however, the tool weighs only 5 lbs, boasts very low vibration, and has a superior ergonomic design to bring craftsmen a tough package that's also simple and surprisingly pleasant to work with. The sander's gearbox is completely enclosed to protect the bearing unit from dust and debris; this vastly extends the life of the tool and its components. Additionally, a jet-stream dust extraction system ensures your work environment is a clean and safe space.

Festool continues innovating the finish sander with the RTS 400 EQ flat surface finish sander. With strength, balance, and truly intelligent design the tool is, essentially, in a league of its own. Weighing only 2.4 lbs the sander is compact and lightweight, and with an ergonomic design it is comfortable to operate despite continuous or awkward use. The sander's balanced design (with vibration stop technology) and simple to operate speed control system render the tool uncommonly smooth and give craftsmen the ability to appropriately ascribe different speeds to each different application. The tool's orbital sanding motion produces full pad contact with the sanding surface, thus, minimizing any swirl effect and yielding strikingly smooth finishes. With a narrow profile rectangular pad design, craftsmen have superior access to tight spaces, the design additionally allows for close sanding on edges and frame members for the most professional finishes from edge to edge. Abrasive removal is quick and simple with the tool's resilient pad hooks and hard-wearing fabric backing - this also, pleasantly, contributes to a longer abrasive and pad life.

Additionally, Porter-Cable builds some of the finest, most trusted finishing sanders in the industry offering craftsmen designs and durability to withstand heavy-use and rough jobsite environments. Delivering the entire spectrum of "really great finishing sander" perks, Porter-Cable's 330 and 344 offer the most commendable features in a seriously high-quality sander. The 330 is small (at only 4 lbs) and ultra simple and comfortable to use. Despite being a smaller tool, the sander is still incredibly sturdy and incorporates rubber posts to isolate your hand from vibration; essentially the tool delivers aggressive sanding action without the stress and fatigue of heavy vibration. The tool orbits at 14,000 OPM to ensure the smoothest, most superfine finishes. Altogether, the 330 is compact, lightweight, comfortable, buttery smooth, and delivers an incredibly fine finish.

The 344 (5") random orbit sander is another treasure from Porter-Cable that exceeds all expectations. Using its powerful and yet oh so delicate style, the tool provides craftsmen with ridiculously smooth surfaces. It's optimized ergonomics are designed to enhance the comfort and usability of the tool, and weighing only 4.05 lbs, the tool is a feather weight with a furious appetite to finish your surfaces with a super-finer quality unlike any other. With a 3 amp motor and super fast 12,000 OPM this sander offers superior consistency, blending, and durability. Additionally, the tool is simple to use, comfortable to operate, ultra smooth, and easy to maintain rendering it, basically, a quality sanding essential.

Each of these sanders is sure to offer you striking results and professionally fine finishes that will leave you smiling after every use.

A student at the UofU, Mallory is currently earning an English degree. Specializing in tool parts & web communications, she joined M&M Tool 4 yrs ago adding to their over 150 yrs combined experience. For over 70 yrs M&M Tool has provided the best service to the tool industry with replacement parts, sales, & service to woodworking products, machinery & power tools like Festool's 567817 finish sander, and Porter-Cable's 330 finish sander.

Tips on How to Replace Brake Pads

Brake pads naturally wear out over time. Luckily, it is not as difficult to replace them as you may think. The tools that you need for this project include a lug wrench, c-clamp, adjustable or open wrench, Allen wrenches, hammer, and a bungee cord. When you jack up your car, make sure that you have it supported by blocks or jack stands. It is never safe to work on a car that is supported by a jack only. The first thing you need to do is remove the wheel. The lugs should be easy to take out, it is best to do so from the bottom up.

Next, in order to remove the brake pads you must first remove the brake caliper. The brake caliper can be located just above the lug bolts, sitting on top of the brake disc. There is a bolt that keeps the caliper in place. You can remove it easily using the suitable wrench. There are different types of bolts that could be keeping it in place, so it is a good idea to have different wrenches handy. Now you can pull the caliper off by pulling directly up. You may need to wiggle it a bit in order to loosen it. Now you can sit the caliper some place convenient, or use your bungee cord to tie it up.

Now comes the time to remove the brake pads. They should actually slide right out without giving you any trouble. Remember how they are attached though, because you will need to know this when you are installing the fresh ones. If you are driving an older vehicle, you may need to tap them with your hammer a bit to get them unstuck. There may be some small metal tabs keeping the pads in place as well. If so, make sure you hang onto them; you will need them when you put the new pads in.

Now you can easily slide your new brake pads in, using the metal tabs to keep them in place if applicable. Now with your new pads affixed, you should adjust the brake piston. This piece of equipment adjusts as your pads wear out in order to keep your brakes working efficiently. To readjust it, you need your c-clamp. Put the end of the clamp with the screw against the piston. The other end should rest behind the caliper assembly. Now just slowly tighten the clamp until the piston has moved to a point where you can insert the pads easily.

The next thing you need to do is slide the caliper assembly over your new pads. Replace the bolts. At this point, it is a good idea to push down the brake petal a few times so that you may be assured of your brake pressure. Now you can replace the wheel and the lug nuts. It is a good idea to make sure that the lug nuts are truly secure. At this point you have successfully changed the brake pads on your car.

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why does my brake pads and caliper on my rear pas side keep wearing out?

I have a 1999, 4cyl, Chrysler Cirrus and when I noticed a rubbing noise, I replaced both rear calipers, rotors, and pads. The old passenger pads and caliper piston were shot. Two weeks after the replacement, the same problem occurred, exclusively on the one side. With all other units operating properly, what could be the case with this one?

Hello,
I would check the items listed in the 1st and 2nd replies starting with the 1st.
You will be looking for a problem related to just one wheel.
1)- Parking brake: The parking brake cable should be a single cable that splits to the rear wheels and will be easy to check. Feel of both. With the brake released there should be slack on the cables. If there is a problem the right side cable will be tight.
2)- Brake line: A collapsed brake line(the one by the wheel, broken up inside) can cause the caliper to stay extended because the fluid is not allowed to return to the master cylinder.
3)- Caliper slides: I am thinking this will not be a problem as you probably have floating calipers. This would be unless a caliper slide bolt is bent. "If" there is caliper slides that would be bent or hung up I am thinking a person would have problems collapsing the calipers to install the pads.
4)- Wheel bearings: I don't think the wheel bearings will be the problem but it is possible so needs to be checked.
5)- The unexpected: If you have ABS the system may be equipped with an equalizer or proportion valve. If all 4 wheels have seperate lines from the front to the back this can be suspected. If so, the valve may be bad. You did not mention anything about ABS but, if equipped, the ABS should not be the problem. If an ABS system malfunctions(sets a code) it is designed to stop functioning and revert to standard brakes. I have never seen an ABS control module hang up(I guess you would say) and hold pressure on a caliper.

New jitney goes into service
Glen Ridge has bought a new jitney bus, to replace a NJ Transit-issued bus that was involved in an accident last month. The 25-passenger bus started service last Thursday.

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