Car And Truck Brake Parts

Carb Brake

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Carb Brake
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OK you just bought a old motorcycle : Sportster, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki or whatever for a great price and the person you bought it from swears that: It has hardly been ridden It has been meticulously maintained it was just rebuilt 1500 miles ago It has just set in the garage, basement, shed, barn or wherever for "a while" Sound Familiar?

I have brought more than my share of old motorcycles home and learned that you can save yourself a lot of aggravation by taking a few simple steps and spending a few bucks up front before you roar off on your new 1986 Belchfire 1300. I wrote this guide primarily for old Harley Sportster motorcycles but it applies to most bikes. Just insert carbs where I put carb and if you have fuel injection make sure that your filter is not in the pressurized side of the fuel pump.

Here goes:

1. Buy a service manual.

2.Throw away the gas. Drain the tank, look for rust and crap in the fuel. Look at the last cup or so of fuel, is it full of rust, does it have water in it? If so take the tank off and clean it.

3.Drain the carb, look at the fuel that comes out of the carb, does it have rust or water in it? If so try running a little Methanol through it followed by clean gas. If the carb is flooding tap on it with a screw driver handle. If the float still sticks clean the carb. You may need to rebuild it. Put a cheap in-line filter on the bike this will trap some of the crud you didn't think was in the tank.

4.Replace the plugs, they don't cost much and they crap out pretty fast on my Iron heads.

5.Check out the spark plug wires, unless they look really good replace them. If in doubt replace them.

6.Replace your points and condenser. (Don't know the gap setting? See step one)

7.Replace the battery unless it really turns the bike over fast or you know it's new. When you pick up your new battery get a battery tender, you will need it. IMHO the charging system on the older Sporties is weak.

8.Check every wire and connection you can get to make sure they are clean and tight.

9.Check every nut,bolt and screw on the bike. Make sure they are 1. Still there 2. Tight. A lot of them won't be.

10.Change all fluids. I use Harley stuff. If you don't agree make sure that whatever you use meets your manufacturer's specs.

11.Check your tire pressure. While your at it ,look your tires over really carefully. Your life depends on them. If your tires are shot replace them. It's cheaper and easier than growing new skin after you dump.

12.Lube everything. Pay special attention to your chain, throttle cables and brake linkages (if you have any). You really don't want the chain to break/ come off, the throttle to stick wide open or the brakes to fail when you take your motorcycle for that first test ride!

Nine times out of ten when I bring an old bike in it has bad gas, bad plugs, sticking floats, bad battery or all four. It is a lot easier to go through these steps with your tools handy in a warm well lit place than next to the road in the dark while it's raining. After you go through these steps you will probably find that your bike runs. If it doesn't break out your new manual and start trouble shooting.

When you get that motorcycle back on the road check out my on line stores for great deals on all your motorcycle gear:

I love motorcycles

Riding motorcycles has always been an important part of my life. I have found that having the right gear goes a long way toward making the hobby enjoyable. I have ridden thousands of miles in all types of weather and enjoy sharing what I know with other riders. I do my best to find affordable gear that does the job and passing on the deals to my brothers and sisters who share my love of riding. I have met some great people both on-line and in person since we opened our on line business in 2003. If you ever have a question just drop me an email. For bargain prices on all your motorcycle gear check out my Yahoo store: http://donscycleware.com

Ride Safe!

Don

Carbohydrates: The Bodybuilders Best Friend or Worst Enemy?

Carbohydrates, otherwise known as carbs in the bodybuilding circles, are a very important constituent of a bodybuilding diet. The main function of carbohydrates in the human body, among body builders and none-body builders alike, is to provide energy to the body. This energy is vital in the efficient functionality of the body in such processes as pumping the blood, transportation and breathing mechanisms.

Besides this cardinal and unconscious body functions, energy is needed to fuel the performance of work, work in this case referring to the engagement of body muscles in movements, lifting, pulling and pushing loads. And this is where bodybuilding relies on carbohydrates.

It is the carbohydrates that are broken down to yield the kilojoules necessary in the performance of exercises, and the more intensive the exercises are the more carbohydrates are required in the body. The supply of carbohydrates to the body ought to be at par with the body requirement of energy, especially for body builders who lead a hyperactive lifestyle. Whenever the carbohydrates fall into short supply, the body digests the available fats to yield energy. If the fats are not available, and the exercises demand more and more energy, the body automatically switches to anabolism, a state in which muscle tissues are digested to yield the much-needed energy.

That is why carbohydrates are so important to a body builder. Adequate supply of carbs ensures that the body can fully meet the demands of a training routine, without resulting to anabolism. A shortage in the supply of carbohydrates might cost the body builder some muscle mass that have taken intensive training to accumulate in the first place.

Carbohydrates are of two types. The first and most important type of carbs is the complex carbs. Complex carbs accrue from such wholesome foods as milk, eggs, meat, wheat, maize, potatoes, arrowroots, cassava, yams, millet, barley and other tropical seeds and roots. These carbs are slow in both digestion and absorption and therefore take a while in the digestive track before the muscles can synthesize them into energy. This particular characteristic works as both as an advantage and as a disadvantage in that, they provide a sustained, ever-present source of energy for a long duration after the meal while in the other hand, they cannot be eaten as emergency energy supply.

The bulk of a body builder’s diet ought to contain complex carbohydrates, if at all the body demand are to be constantly met. The second type of carbs are the simple carbs, simple being an adequate description. They are easy to brake down and in fact, most are already broken down in readiness for the absorption and synthesis in the muscle metabolism sites. Again, the ease with which simple carbs are ingested and utilized by the body works both as an advantage and as a disadvantage.

As an advantage, simple carbohydrates are very effective in emergency supply of energy because they require but seconds to be transmitted to the muscles after ingestion. In instances such as after an intensive work out, the body builders has totally exhausted the energy reserves in the body and simple carbs come in hardy in restoring the depleted glycogen levels before the body results to anabolism. This is even more important during the training workouts themselves, when the body demands emergency supply of carbs. At these times, complex carbs would just not do.

On the other hand, however, simple carbs give a momentary reprieve and are easily depleted, meaning that they cannot offer a dependable source of energy for the body builder.

About the Author

Dane Fletcher is the world-wide authority on bodybuilding and steroids. He has coached countless athletes all over the world. To read more of his work, please visit either www.BodybuildingToday.com or www.SteroidsToday.com

2002 yamaha big bear not starting? need help on carb?

Ok i just posted a comment on it not starting... and that the rear brakes were frozen...

So this is my next question how do i get the car off? i can do a lot of the minor to technical stuff but as far as getting it out? i dont know if i can get it all back together... call me slow but maybe its a trust in myself..
im sure i can take it apart.. and clean it once its off.. i always take things apart and put them back together easily.

then the next step let the carb soak for about a day in carb cleaner. getting to this step is my main goal..

Before you tackle anything on the quad you really need a shop manual.

Even pros will refer to the shop manual when they're working with a machine they're unfamiliar with.

The carb on the Big Bear has about 25 separate parts inside. Install one of those parts backwards or upside-down and you'll have problems. You'll have bigger problems if you try and remove something that's not removeable and break off a piece internally.

I didn't read your first question - but I'm assuming you've checked for spark? Cleaned the air filter? Checked to see if fuel is flowing through the carb? If yes to all these, then have you installed a new spark plug? Is the gas fresh? How about the battery - it may be strong enough to crank the engine but not strong enough to actually start it.

My boss always tells me to KISS the engine - Keep It Simple Stupid. Try all the basics before I go crazy and start removing and replacing parts. Of course, the most simple place to start is with that shop manual!

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