Car And Truck Brake Parts

Ceramic Brake

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Ceramic Brake
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Ceramic brake pad linings are a relatively new compound in the automotive industry. Cars first started coming equipped with ceramic brake pads in the early 90's. The ceramic compounds have changed significantly since the first introduction into the marketplace. Initial concerns with the original ceramic compounds focused on the reduced stopping power with cold brakes, and premature wear of the rotors. This was because the original compound was adapted from automotive racing, and when you are racing a vehicle the brakes are being treated in a very different way than during every day driving situations. Tires, brakes and the engine reach a significantly higher operating temperature in race vehicles and this is the temperature that the ceramic components were designed to operate in. The ceramic materials are now more suitable for every day driving and are considered an upgrade regardless of whether the vehicle was originally equipped with semi-metallic, ceramic, or organic pads.

All brake pads perform as required, meaning they stop your vehicle when you put your foot on the brake pedal. That said, while there are advantages with all brake lining compounds the only advantage that the semi-metallic pad offers is an incredibly low price. Alternatively, Ceramic Brake Pads offer some notable advantages. First and foremost, the ceramic pad does not create a visible brake dust that blackens your wheels. If you have wheels that you are proud of, i.e. chrome or wheels that cost more than your vehicle; you will be a big fan of the ceramic brake pad. The second advantage is the reduced tendency to squeal. The ceramic compound does not contain steel fibers; the metal content in some semi-metallic pads was found to be the source of brake squeal for some manufacturers. The ceramic compound also typically lasts longer than a semi-metallic compound, and this is seen as an advantage with most vehicles, because pads normally wear out quicker than the rotors. Finding a perfect balance of wear between rotors and pads, so that rotors need to be replaced at the same time as the pads do, is the ideal situation. Ceramics typically help make this happen, but most vehicles' brake designs are quite different and this is not always the case.

Once you are aware of the differences between the two primary brake pads on the market the choice becomes clear. If you are replacing the brake pads on your daily driver pay the incrementally higher price and purchase the clearly superior ceramic brake pads. If you are only trying to keep that old beater alive for another year then maybe you will find the semi-metallic's to be the a very suitable and certainly more economical choice.

Shane White has over 30 years' hands on experience in the Auto Repair and Aftermarket Auto Parts industry. As a fully licensed mechanic Shane ran a successful garage for over 10 years. Over the past 9 years Shane has focused on the managerial side of the Auto Repair and Replacement Auto Parts industry. Currently Shane is Vice President Operations with Prime Choice Auto Parts (http://www.primechoiceautoparts.com), a Factory Direct to consumer, online store, specializing in High Quality - High Value Aftermarket Auto Parts like Hub Bearing Assemblies, Complete Strut Assemblies, Brake Parts, Car Starter Motors and Alternators for all makes and models.

Replacing Vw Ceramic Brake Pads, Removing Calipers

Bringing your VW car to a mechanic will give you less hustle in labor. Replacing your deteriorated brake part may be very labor intensive. But for car owners who want to save money for an auto repair, doing it yourself is the answer, regardless of the labor and time it will incur you.

A guide, like this, for replacing your VW ceramic brake pads and removing calipers will help.

First, you will need materials such as wrenches, jack, jack stands, wire brush, screwdriver or pry bar, pliers or vise grips, hammer, large C-clamp, high-temperature lubricant, latex gloves, and of course, new brake pads.

Gather together all those mentioned tools and supplies before you begin. Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don not have to hurry and cram. Safety is important whenever you are working around machinery. So, beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials. Though economizing in terms of money is your goal, do not substitute tools unless you are sure you will not compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle. Say for instance, never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you are working. Work on a solid and level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass. Do one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused. Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. If there is any, replace them as necessary.

Brake linings contain asbestos. Avoid creating or breathing dust when changing the linings or cleaning the parts. Use water to wash down the brakes before starting and wear gloves to avoid prolonged contact with your skin. Any contact of these materials to your skin may have bad effects.

To finally start, remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose it off properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid. Always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid messes up with paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off with plenty of water. After all, brake fluid is water soluble.

Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs. You need to loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely. Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side. Remove the lugs and then take the wheels off.

You might ask yourself how to remove the calipers. Listed are the steps on how to.

For the floating caliper, remove the two caliper guide pins or bolts. Look at the locations and positions of any bushings or guides so that they can be reinstalled properly. Rock the caliper back and forth to push the piston back enough to slide the caliper off. The floating caliper is now ready to be removed. By using a large C-clamp, push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

Another type is the sliding caliper.

A support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the caliper bridge. Remove the retaining bolt or screw holding the key. Then, drive the key out with an appropriate tool. Note the position of any springs or clips before you remove them. The retainers will simply lift off. Observe and note the position of the retainers before you remove them. After this, the sliding caliper is now ready to be removed. Through the use of a large C-clamp, push on the inboard pad to move the piston back into the caliper. Do it slow and steady. If you did not remove half the brake fluid, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

The sliding caliper can also be removed by separating the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is already removed.

Clean the caliper mounting surfaces with a wire brush and remove all the rust and dirt. The sliding surfaces must be as clean as possible for proper brake operation. You need to wet down the area with water to prevent dust from sticking. Allow parts to dry.

Fixed Caliper, on the other hand, can be removed by removing the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads will not come out the back of the caliper. Push back the piston before removing the old pads. Again, if half the brake fluid was not removed, make an appointment to have your vehicle repainted.

Check the rotor or disc for scores, rusting or pitting. It is recommended that the rotors be resurfaced to remove any imperfections and true up the braking surface to prevent brake pulsations. Then, remove the pads from the calipers and remove any pins or retainers. Push pads back and pull them out.

You are done replacing your VW ceramic brake pads and removing calipers. Labor intensive, but money saving.

About the Author

Benjamin Hudson works as a supervisor at one of the top engineering firms in the business district of Louisiana. He is also a freelance journalist and has passion for anything automotive.

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