Car And Truck Brake Parts

Disc Brake

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Disc Brake
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Here are some more information for Disc Brake:

You can do some maintenance and minor repairs on your own vehicle.

To check the brake fluid level, raise the hood.

The master cylinder (mc) is located on the driver's side near the firewall, just under the windshield.

Most master cylinders have two small round caps that you can twist off. Some have one rectangular cap that either snaps on or has a metal bar that clips over the cap.

You can remove the metal clip by inserting a screwdriver under the clip and lifting up on the handle.

The plastic rectangular cap can be removed by popping it off with your thumbs.

Be very careful removing the caps.

It's best to take a paper towel and clean around the filler caps before removing.

Trash, dirt, or water can cause a lot of problems with your brake system...so, lets be cleaning-freaks when we work on the brake system, especially the master cylinder.

If the brake fluid in the master cylinder with the small round caps is up to the ring at the base of the filler neck it is okay.

In the master cylinder with the one cap the level should be at least one-quarter inch from the top.

You don't want to fill the master cylinder too full, it needs room to expand when it gets hot.

Look at the fluid. What color is it?

Clean fluid will be clear with a slight shade of yellowish.

If the fluid is dark, or blackish, you may have rubber hoses deteriorating inside.

The front brakes have a rubber-like hose from the caliper to the metal line coming from the master cylinder...if you have rear disc, they have a rubber line also.

Over a period of time, and heat, these lines will deteriorate inside.

Disc brakes generate an excessive amount of heat.

If it's where you can, poke your finger into the master cylinder and rub the bottom.

Now then, look at the end of your finger.

What is that?

If you have black deposits on your finger you need to clean the master cylinder.

A note about anti-lock brakes (ABS), just clean the master cylinder with paper towels the best you can.

Be sure not to leave any paper particles inside, they could stop-up a line.

It is recommended that you change these two rubber lines, because they will only contaminate the master cylinder again.

When you remove the lines you will loose the fluid in the master cylinder: this would be the time to clean the master cylinder and flush the entire brake system.

Some master cylinders have two compartments: one for the front brakes (the largest) and one for the rear brakes (the smallest).

We will only consentrate on changing the front lines at this time.

Remove the lid, or caps, from the master cylinder.

Put a paper towel over the master cylinder to keep contaminates out.

You may want to raise the vehicle and remove the front tires.

If you do, be sure to block the rear tires, set the emergency brake, and put stands of some sort under the body of the vehicle just behind the front tires on front wheel drive vehicles.

On rear wheel drives you can put your stand under the lower control arm (where the shock is bolted).

You will need the proper tools to break the lines loose.

Please don't use adjustable wrenches or pliers...you will ruin the shoulders on the nuts.

It's best to use a "line" wrench to break the nuts loose and then use the open-end wrench.

Don't get any brake fluid on the car body paint...it will peel the paint.

Once you have the old lines off and the new lines on, open the bleeder valves on the calipers and fill the master cylinder with the proper brake fluid, most use Dot3.

You may have to wait several minutes for the fluid to come through the lines and out the bleeders.

Once the fluid has started running through the bleeders you can close the one on the driver's side and then the one on the passenger side.

Check the fluid and add some if it is quite low--never let the master cylinder run out!

You will have air in the line and sometimes it's a bugger to get it all out.

After you check the level of the fluid, replace the covers, or caps.

Crank the engine and apply pressure on the brake pedal.

If the pedal feels spongy , you need to open the bleeder on the passenger side.

If you have help, let them press the brake pedal down slowly.

As they press the pedal, fluid will rush from the bleeder...tighten it.

Did you see any air bubbles coming out?

Try this two or three times, then go to the driver's side and bleed it in the same manner.

Be sure to inform your helper not to let the pedal up until you have the bleeder closed, otherwise, you will get more air in it.

Watch the fluid as it comes out, by standing away from it... it smarts the eyes when it gets into them, but fresh water will do the trick to get it out.

In face, water is all you need to get it off your hands.

Now, does the pedal go down about half-way to the floorboard and have a "solid" or "hard" feel to it? If it does, you're okay.

You can replace the wheels and go shopping, for more tools, because we will discuss radiators, heater cores, and hoses next time.

Oh, I'm sorry, all you wanted to do was 'check' the fluid in the Master Cylinder and make sure it was within a quarter inch from the top...oh, well, you got all this extra for the same nickle.

Tommy Sessions has been in auto repair since 1970. He publishes Auto Repair Answers Newsletter so you can learn how to keep your vehicle looking new, running safely and efficiently, while you save money and time...also, learn how to avoid shop rip offs. Don't be at the mercy of the dealerships and auto repair shops...they will have more respect for you.
http://www.auto-repair-answers.com

No More Squeals With a Honda Brake Disc

While your Honda car is great with engine performance, another thing you can be proud of is its efficient braking system. The company makes sure that your car’s strong engine performance is coupled with an extremely reliable braking system. To guarantee its reliability, Honda adopted the disc brake system and installed it in its vehicles. This system is ideal since it helps delay early wear and tear, self adjusting, and water resistant. The Honda brake disc is one of the integral parts in the brake disc system.

Braking systems generate a lot of heat. When this heat is accumulated, it causes the brake parts’ early wear and tear. That is why a Honda brake disc have holes that are also called cooling fins. The cooling fins allow the excess heat to dissipate, Thus maintaining the good condition of braking components. Also, brake discs absorb the excess heat, keeping it away from the other brake parts. Honda brake discs are made of materials that are very good heat conductors like metal alloy. They have a series of slots cutting from the edge into the center as well. These slots provide a larger amount of space for better airflow.

But even though Honda uses quality materials to produce the Honda brake discs, natural wear and tear can still occur. Also, dirt like dust and mud can get into the slots and block the airway, reducing the airflow. Furthermore, corrosion can cause cracks and gouges to form on the brake discs’ surface. Signs of brake disc damage are vibrating steering wheels and high-pitched squeals when the car stops. When this happens, replacing them with a Honda brake disc is a must. We offer top notch Honda brake discs from our online catalog. And as they are offered at discounted prices, you can save money but still get quality braking performance.

About the Author

Anthony Fontanelle is a 35-year-old automotive buff who grew up in the Windy City. He does freelance work for an automotive magazine when he is not busy customizing cars in his shop.

If I have a drum brake rear end for a 92' firebird, can I use my disc brake parts to convert?

Disc brake rear end went out. I have a rear end that will fit, but it is drum. Can I use my disc parts without having to buy more parts?

Everything will fit except you'll need to make of buy 2 caliper bracket* flanges to be welded one on each axle tube. Double check the outer axle bearings on each rear-end.

Specs on the Hyundai Sonata
Bottom line: All rival car manufacturers should keep an eye on the new Sonata's performance in the marketplace. Hyundai's underlying drive to beat the Japanese at their own game could upset everybody. Hyundai - HyundaiSonata - 2011HyundaiSonata - Sedan - 2011Hyundai

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