Car And Truck Brake Parts

Firewall Brake

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Firewall Brake
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When shopping for a used car you should make an appointment to view a car for sale and specifically request that they do not have the car started or warmed up until you get there. When you arrive you can pop the hood and feel the engine temperature by placing your hand on or near the block which is the main component of the bulk of the engine. This large piece of metal will retain heat for hours after warming up. If the engine is still warm consider coming back another time or moving on to the next prospective car.

Starting a car from a cold start is critical in helping to gauge the condition of the motor. Difficulties in starting, or weak cranking or funny noises are all indications of systems in the engine which are no longer running optimally. Still, before you even want to start the car you need to do a complete inspection of the fluids in the engine.

The first thing to check is the engine oil. To get an accurate level reading the car must be parked on a flat and level surface and it is best if the car has been parked overnight and not running. The oil that is on the dipstick when you remove it should be amber in color and mostly translucent. The darker and more gritty the oil the worse the vehicle has been maintained. The level of the oil is also important as this will tell you if the car is leaking or burning oil as well as tell you a little about the maintenance history of the car. Ideally the oil level should be to the full line indicator on the dipstick.

You should check for oil leaks by inspecting visually the underside of the engine. If there is an oil leak it will be very apparent in the caked on grease and road debris stuck to the underside of the car. If there is not you will need to watch for burning oil. If the oil level is low it has to be going somewhere.

Another fluid to check is the radiator fluid. For safety, the car must be completely cold before you attempt to open the radiator cap. The fluid in the radiator should be clean and clear despite usually being green. What you do not want to see is oil, debris or nothing. If you are comfortable working around cars and radiators you can start and run the car with the radiator cap off. If you have bubbles like a rolling boil when you rev up the engine then the car likely has internal failure in the form of lost compression in the engine escaping through the usually isolated cooling system.

There will likely be a brake fluid reservoir mounted to the firewall of the engine compartment. This would be the brake assist system and also may be utilized for hydraulic clutch assist in some vehicles. This fluid should be clear and mostly transparent. A leak in the braking master cylinder will manifest itself as a loss of brakes eventually but will start by visual fluid loss from the master cylinder.

All belts and pulleys should be in good physical condition free of cracking or worn edges. The wiring in the engine compartment should look clean and neat. Any signs of random wiring or messy wires is an indication that under-qualified hands have been working on the engine.

When you start the engine it should crank over, fire, and find a smooth and steady idle easily. Any hesitations, backfires or irregular idling are a sign of engine problems. Not all engine problems are serious and many can be simple such as a vacuum leak. Still it would be preferable to find a car with a great sounding and looking engine.

Smoke from the tailpipe will be burning oil, burning coolant or unburnt gasoline in some cases. Coolant burns white and smells like burning maple syrup. Oil burns blue/white/grey and can also be visible coming from the engine oil dipstick if you remove the dipstick while the engine is running. The term for this is "blow-by" which refers to engine oil blowing by piston rings which have become worn with age, heat and friction.

Finally the most important thing to avoid is an engine with a knocking sound. A knock is known to be the death march of an engine as it indicates a major internal engine component failure. Avoid knocking engines altogether.

Steven Goodale is the author of "Used Car Buying - A Mechanics Guide" which is available as a free ebook directly on the website http://www.UsedCarBuying.ca and includes step by step procedures for inspecting and purchasing used cars.

How to protect your wireless broadband connection

At first glance having your wireless connection hijacked is not as improbable as it may seem.

Regardless of whether your wireless connection is liberated by a balaclava-clad burglar during the night or a chap on his laptop sitting in a white van outside your house on his lunchbreak, the end result is the same: a high bill or, even worse, a 'policeman's knock' at 5am.

To avoid this happening to you and to ensure that nobody piggy-backs on your broadband connection, have a look at the helpful hints below.

Get a password

It is a fact that a lot of broadband users overlook the importance of a network key or password. This invariably leaves their wireless network, and critically, their documents and data, unprotected and open to all and sundry within range. Ouch.

The safest way to prevent unauthorised access to the system is to strictly limit it only to those people who need to be aware of the password, which then has to be entered before the network can be accessed.

To make your network's password even more secure, you can adjust the depth of protection by means of encryption, as described below.

Use a strong encryption method

If you are unfamiliar with the term and what it involves, this may help. If you have a wireless broadband deal, basically there are two types of encryption used to protect wireless networks, namely, WEP and WPA.

With WEP protection, the wireless router creates a sequence of random letters and numbers using either 10 (64bit) or 26 (128bit) characters which form the password you would use to get into your network.

But this method of encryption has become a hacker's dream as it didn't take them long to learn how to crack any password by simply doing a quick search on Google, making this method about as safe as a car careering downhill with no brakes and with the turbo booster on max.

With WPA, you are able to choose your own password made up in any way you like. This is virtually impossible to hack, with only the people knowing the password able to log-on. Sounds safer, doesn't it?

Monitor how much bandwidth you are using

It is only common sense to realise that sending and receiving emails or watching iPlayer is bound to cost you something. This cost is initially carried by your broadband provider who then craftily passes these costs on to you, as the user, once it reaches a certain trigger point.

So, if your broadband package allows you a limited amount of usage every month, 5Gb for example, you will have to pay extra if you exceed the limit but with an unlimited broadband package, it is immaterial how much bandwidth you use as it is all included in the monthly price.

A password is definitely a must. It not only protects your network from being piggy-backed by any Tom, Dick or Harry with you having to foot the whole bill, but it also means you can monitor your bandwidth usage by means of a nifty free program such as NetMeter. This keeps your network safe from any unlawful shenanigans behind your back.

Don't forget a firewall

In this day and age, with the number of sophisticated internet hackers around, you must be able to protect your broadband connection as far as possible from virtual intrusion.

A hardware firewall, which is fortunately built in to just about all routers, offers far better secure protection than the average software firewall does.

This deters unwelcome hackers and any other illegal attempts to access your computer via the internet.

What you must do is to have a good look through the manual for your router to make certain that your firewall is turned on.

But you must also realise that a firewall alone is insufficient safeguard against viruses, so it is absolutely essential to also have anti-virus software installed, which you should keep regularly up to date.

About the Author

Broadband journalist Shirley Stevens is an independent writer often published on sites offering broadband deals, where you can also find the cheapest broadband deals.

Brake system, reflection valve (?) on a '96 Stratus?

My mechanic said he wasn't sure what it is, though he knew it would be expensive (dealer only part). Its leaking and needs to be replaced. Its opposite the master cylinder, and attached to the firewall. How do I know whether his estimate is accurate (when I finally get one) being that its a dealer only part? I got front and rear brakes done by these same guys back in February, shouldn't they have caught it then?

if he,s talking about the proportioning valve they are expensive to replace,but no that bad,it might not have been leaking when they did the brakes on it so they probably wouldn't have noticed this right off unless they was looking for it,the don't always look for problems on vehicles they usually replace what the customers says to do or needs done,but the whole brake system should have been inspected,most shops will do that while their repairing one,you didn't say what their estimate was so i have no idea what they priced this to you for,good luck.

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