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Fluid Reservoir

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Fluid Reservoir
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A liquid ring vacuum pump should be strongly considered when the gas load is wet. It's internal construction allows the pumping of saturated loads without concern of damage to the pump. In fact, a net pumping increase can be realized from the standard pumping curve as the warm process vapors condense inside the cooler liquid ring.

This is not the case when oil sealed or dry vacuum pumps are employed when pumping wet gases and should rarely be considered for this type of service. However, the liquid ring vacuum pump relies on the physical properties of the sealant to determine its maximum vacuum level and is usually limited to around 25mmHg.

When deeper vacuum levels are required an extra pumping stage can be employed such as the Rotary Booster or Blower. Applying one rotary booster at the vacuum pump suction can enhance the operating pressure down to 4-10mm. The improved performance can often make the boosted system a more cost effective way of increasing performance compared to using more or larger primary vacuum pumps.

A booster blower is shown above, backed by a liquid ring, with its two interlocking rotors used to trap and convey gas. The rotors are synchronized by external gears and rotate in opposite directions. Each rotor traps a pocket of gas as it moves past the inlet port. The trapped pocket of gas is then conveyed around the periphery of the casing bounded by the casing and the rotor. The gas is moving at a constant pressure with actual compression occurring when it is discharged at the discharge port. The lobes are synchronized through the use of timing gears which maintain a constant clearance between the rotors and the cylinder.

The back gassing of a blower is completely determined by these clearances. Booster blowers do not have sealing or lubricating fluids in the pumping chamber and rely on separate lubricating fluid reservoirs located on each end of the cylinder to provide lubrication to the bearings, seals and timing gears. Generally, Labyrinth seals are designed to separate the oil reservoir from the pumping chamber. Typical rotating speeds are as high as 3 to 4000 rpm and are available in different materials of construction to meet the gas constituency of the process.

Since the compression occurs completely at the discharge port of the blower there is little chance for the compressed gas to share its heat with the blower housing, therefore blowers are generally limited in their compression ratio. Typically for gas discharge pressures higher than 10mm the theoretical limit is 2.3:1. Higher compression ratios will result in the discharge nozzle becoming overheated which in turn will transfer excessive heat to the blower lobes and can potentially result in mechanical failure.

Even though a booster blower will operate with a compression ratio of only 2.3:1 above 10mm there remains a tremendous advantage to pumping below 10mm since as the pressure moves lower the compression ratio across the blower can be as large as 50:1. This allows a very large capacity pumping system to be realized by adding a blower to a smaller vacuum pump and when applied to a liquid ring vacuum pump allows the system pressure to move lower than the vapor pressure limitation of the liquid ring.

Calculating the temperature rise across the booster blower is relatively simple and straight forward. From atmospheric to pressures down to 10mm the temperature rise coefficient is essentially unity. As the pressure moves lower to say .1mm, then the temperature rise coefficient becomes a much lower value, typically .01.

Temperature Rise = T x TRC x (K-1)/(K) x (SR-1)/Volumetric Efficiency

Where T = Absolute temp of the inlet gas

TRC = Temperature rise coefficient

SR = Staging ratio

For example a blower operating a 10mm with a 2:1 staging ratio and an inlet gas temperature of 100f would yield a temperature rise of 90f. If we change the staging ratio to 3:1 this would result in a temperature rise of 180f. And if we change the operating inlet pressure to 1mm the temperature rise now becomes 24f.

Pressures below 4mm are possible when using a liquid ring vacuum pump by staging multiple booster blowers ahead of the liquid ring, or a combination of blowers and ejectors. Operating pressures in the fractions of a mm range are achievable.

Scot Desiderio

Certified Gas Compression Expert
http://www.houstonvpc.com

How To Check And Change Your Power Steering Fluid

Water, oil and gasoline are not the only fluids your automobile needs to function properly. Power steering fluid is also important if you want to retain the ability to properly steer your vehicle while driving. This fluid is essential for protecting your entire steering system and its pump. Let it run low or dry and you might find yourself in need of costly repairs.

Keeping the power steering fluid topped off is always a good idea. It is also important to replace the fluid when it becomes old. A color that is much darker than fresh power steering fluid will indicate the need for a change.

If you do not want to pay a shop to top off power steering fluid or replace it, you can do both jobs on your own.

To add power steering fluid to your system, follow these steps:

Purchase the right fluid for your car – Make sure to check your manual for power steering fluid recommendations. Purchase the right kind of fluid.

Locate the reservoir – The power steering fluid reservoir will likely be clearly labeled. If it is not, look for the belts in the engine compartment and keep looking for a pulley-driven pump. There will be a plastic or metal reservoir on top of this pump.

Check the levels and fill – The reservoir will be clear in color and have fill lines printed directly on it or it will operate with a dipstick system. If the latter is the case, pull out the dipstick and wipe it off. Then put it back into the fluid and pull it out to read the level. Do inspect the color of the fluid. If it is much darker than standard, a full replacement is probably in order. If it is not, go ahead and use a funnel to fill the fluid up to the fill line and then replace the cap.

Now, if you discovered the fluid color was off, it is time for a change. To perform this, follow these steps:

Locate the power steering fluid reservoir – Follow the steps above to do this. Once you have the location, check to see if you have clear access to the reservoir hose. If you do not, you may need to temporarily detach the overflow tank from the radiator. The hose itself will be on the bottom of the reservoir tank.

Remove the hose – Once you can access the reservoir hose, go ahead and remove it. Replace the hose with a longer one that is connected to an empty container that will store the old fluid.

Jack up the car – With the hose now connected, jack up the front end of the car to make the flow of old fluid go more smoothly.

Add new fluid into the reservoir – To flush out the system, start adding new fluid into the reservoir. This action will force the old fluids out of the system. As this is filling, crank the steering wheel inside the car a few times in both directions to squeeze old fluids out. Do watch the catch container for the presence of new fluids. When you see clean fluid enter the disposal container, the flushing is done.

Reconnect the hoses – Once the old fluid is out of the system, go ahead and remove the draining hose and put the correct hose back in place. Put the radiator tank back in place if it needed to be removed, as well.

Fill it up – With everything back where it belongs, go ahead and refill the power steering reservoir to the fill line and then replace the cap.

Keeping up with power steering fluid levels and required changes can help prevent damage down the road. To avoid costly repairs, it is best to check this system per manufacturer recommendations.

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how to replace windshield washer fluid reservoir in a 98 chevy malibu?

My waher fluid reservoir is leaking very bad i want to get it fixed before it starts to get real cold out.

just a few screws really simple and you know cleaner or water freeze so in winter must add deicer to jug or it wil bust again but repaling it should be easy just look for screws that hold it down might take ten minutes

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