Ghia Type
Feb/090
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Ghia Type
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2 KEY lock 1972 1973 1974 1979 VW Beetle Bug GHIA type 3 karmann ignition switch US $99.99
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VW,HEATER CABLE,TYPE 1,SUPER BEETLE, KARMANN GHIA 65-72 US $11.95
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In the US, it's a rare sight to see a Karmann Ghia at all let alone spot a Karmann Ghia for sale, which explains part of its allure with collectors. Manufactured by Volkswagen in Germany between 1955 and 1974 and in Brazil from 1962 to 1975, there weren't many made.
There were 445,238 built and sold total through the German manufacturing plant while 41,689 rolled off the assembly lines in Brazil. That's less than half a million KGs in the entire world, and more than 35 years since Volkswagen manufactured the last one, these numbers have dwindled markedly.
Designated the Type 14 internally, the original Karmann Ghia for sale was a 2+2, meaning that it had two primary front seats as well as two smaller seats for occasional passengers, such as children, in the rear. It was also available in three body styles.
Volkswagen imported both the coupe and the cabriolet convertible models from Germany to the US and other parts of the world. Brazil was the only country to have the KGs manufactured locally. It was in Brazil that Volkswagen developed the Karmann Ghia TC.
The TC version of the Karmann Ghia for sale was a Brazil-only sportier version of the standard KG manufactured between 1970 and 1975. Volkswagen in Brazil intended it to compete with the ever-popular Porsche 911, at least in aesthetics. However, the TC did not find success, and the model was short lived.
During that 5-6 year run, Volkswagen manufactured 18,119 total Karmann Ghia TCs. Volkswagen never exported them outside of South America, so that makes them coveted by collectors today worldwide. It is very rare to find one outside of the Americas. They do make an appearance from time to time at North American auto shows.
Due to all of this rarity, a neophyte enthusiast might expect the classic KG to cost the proverbial arm and leg, but that isn't necessarily the case. The problem is finding one, but that rarity hasn't inflated the prices, so the KG makes for an excellent introduction into the world of classic cars, if one can get your hands on a specimen.
Volkswagen has earned its legendary reputation for reliability and durability, but the collector should not assume that this makes the KG an "easy" classic car. On the contrary, KGs have all of the problems and work requirements that come with any classic car. As with any classic car purchase, it's important that the enthusiast enter the venture with their eyes wide open.
As much as it is like all classics, the KG is also very much something unique. It's a hand-built specialist automobile, for which design was precise and parts were handpicked. Essentially, Volkswagen took the VW Beetle, and gave it to the Italians in order for them to add that sexy je ne sais quoi.
For the collector this translates into an interesting dynamic. Parts for the Karmann Ghia are not easy to come by, but in many instances, they are analogous to the Beetle parts of the time. In these cases, one can use the Beetle part with very little modification. In circumstances where this isn't the case, the collector should be prepared for part-hunting process.
With right amount of time and energy, the KG is a fantastic classic car investment. It provides the enthusiast with the full range of memories from hunting for that Karmann Ghia for sale to hunting for the right parts to make it go. Nothing quite compares to the feeling of driving that fully restored Karmann Ghia for the first time.
Dan Legal is a member of the web team that runs the website LemonFree.com Car Classifieds. LemonFree is a car search engine which currently has over 2 million new and used cars for sale. If your interested in purchasing a Karmann Ghia For Sale; trust LemonFree to help you find your next car today!
What to look for when buying second hand cars on behalf of others
Always remember when you're appraising second hand cars you are buying a used cars. Approach the transaction as if you were spending your own money! Take your time! Remember if the customer were to get an AA report done on second hand cars you were selling them, the engineer would go through it from A-Z, forensic style and it would take him approximately two hours. A Toyota Yaris is a lot easier to appraise than a Mitsubishi Evolution, so if you’re talking to the customer prior to them coming in, ask them to allow enough time to demonstrate the new vehicle and appraise their trade-in properly. Also ask them to bring all documentation, VLC, VRC, service history, handbooks etc. with them.
Try and do the trade-in appraisal early on in the negotiations and get the details like a motor check and accident report while the customer has tea or coffee.
Remember these Golden Rules
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If you are not proficient, get someone who is, to help you, preferably someone with mechanical or bodywork experience.
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The trade-in needs to be accurately/professionally appraised. Never examine a car if it is dirty, while it is raining, still wet, or in bad light.
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Always use a professional appraisal form. Have the customer sign the appraisal on completion. (They may damage the car before they collect their new one).
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Test-drive the vehicle. Check the vehicle on full lock for velocity joint and steering/suspension problems. Take the customer with you. They will be impressed if you adopt a thorough method of appraisal. If for whatever reason you cannot test drive the vehicle, start the car, leave it running, after a few minutes "rev" the engine to 3000-3500 rpm check for excess smoke from exhaust or abnormal sounds from the engine. If in doubt revert to Golden Rule 1.
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Establish the exact model e.g. is it an L, a Freedom, an LX or a Ghia? Do not take the customers word - check documentation. Also the Car Salesman’s Guide for model changes/facelifts in that year.
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Establish how many owners the vehicle has had (double-check documentation).
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Develop your own routine for examining a vehicle, slowly walk around the car, several times if necessary, taking note of paintwork abnormalities, panel alignment and gaps. Look down both sides of the vehicle, on your hunkers, to get a better view of shopping trolley type marks/dents "dings" as we call them. These types of marks are very difficult to repair and if there are several can result in the vehicle not being "sharp".
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Open bonnet, check visually for oil leaks, service stickers, timing-belt replacement markings. Cross check with service book.
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Inspect bonnet-mounting bolts, wing mounting bolts to see if have they been tampered with. Check side valances, headlamp mountings etc. for any abnormality. If in doubt, revert back to Golden Rule 1.
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Check the roof of the vehicle. If someone has walked across the roof, for example, it is almost impossible to repair properly, bar putting on a new roof-skin, which is hugely expensive or filling with Isopon. Both options depreciate the vehicle and most likely excluding it from retail sale.
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Open the boot, lift boot mat and check for any abnormalities.
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Sit inside car, check steering wheel for wear (shininess), drivers floor mat and pedal rubbers for excess wear, always a good indicator of a "high miler". Check cigarette lighter, has it been used?? If the car has never been smoked in, that's a bonus. Check the roof cloth, interior trims for wear and tear, cigarette burns etc.
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If the car is an import, be extra vigilant. Double-check all of the above. Check the chassis no. (VIN) if it begins with SABTVRO it means the vehicle was previously registered in Great Britain on a "Q" plate, which means the authorities cannot verify its origin.
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Spare key?? Make sure they have it or deduct accordingly. Always pay attention to number plate surrounds, rear window stickers, tax holder stickers, key rings, if they all match and are from a reputable dealer, good. "She came from a good stable"
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Always ask the customer has the car had any bodywork or paintwork? There is a big difference. Ask what was the cost of any repair? Ask to see receipts. Do not be embarrassed to ask! Be warned if the vehicle was damaged, you are entering a minefield. Has it had light damage and was badly repaired? Worse still, has it had major body damage and been expertly repaired. Vehicles having had repair suffer from depreciation to some extent. CHEAP BODYWORK IS FALSE ECONOMY. Was the car stolen and recovered? If it was, it is most likely registered in the insurance companies name claims department and recorded. Revert back to Golden Rule 1.
About the Author
My name is Mihai.
what type of immobiliser is a 1998 ford fiesta ghia 1.4 5 door fitted with?
Just a factory fitted ignition immobiliser with a transponder key
1992 Ford Fairlane NCII Ghia from Australia and New Zealand - Comments
When a new stereo was installed, the park lights fuse kept blowing, so further investigation found that the previous owner had wired the park light wire to the earth wire.
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