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Fall has traditionally been a time for homeowners to have their lawns aerated with a "coring" or "plugging" machine. It sounds like a good idea, and looks impressive when done, but does this practice alone actually provide any real long-term benefit to your soil or lawn? Does the soil actually become better aerated or more porous? According to Tamson Yeh, Ph.D, speaking in the Cornell Turfgrass ShortCutt (5/24/10), coring 2 times a year on a poor soil, over a 3 year period, showed no soil improvement benefit. So perhaps it is time to rethink the subject.

Improving soil aeration is extremely beneficial to lawns and gardens growing in clay or compacted soil. It will help water move down into the root zone easily. In well-aerated soils, beneficial soil microbes (that need air to survive) can thrive and create humus and improve soil structure. Roots get deeper and nutrients are exchanged more easily. Good topsoils are naturally aerated. Unfortunately, most suburban lots have had the topsoil stripped off and homeowners are left with a denser clay or subsoil in which to grow their lawns and gardens. If you were planting a new lawn in this clay you could till in tons of compost and other amendments to improve aeration. But on established lawns this is not an option.

We suggest trying a new approach to improving your soil quality, and we call this "liquid aeration". We've been doing liquid aerations, instead of coring, for 15 plus years, and have witnessed real soil improvement. Liquid Aeration is simply a solution of amendments that get into the root zone quickly and create microscopic pores and channels that help with water and air movement. It also adds organic ingredients that generate and feed microbes, leading to humus and a restructuring of the clay.

A good liquid aeration solution would contain, at minimum a good soil surfactant or wetting agent. This is a soap-like product that helps thin out water and reduce surface tension, breaking up dirt (clay) and creates microscopic channels for air and water to move through. Surfactants have been a staple in the agriculture and golf course industries for decades. There is a broad range in the quality and harshness of surfactants. We suggest using one that is completely biodegradable with no anti-bacterial components.

Temporary pores and channels in the clay will allow soil-building microbes to generate, especially if you put in a readily available organic food source. It is these microbes, along with earthworms, that do the work of creating humus and restructuring the clay into aggregates of soil with airspace between them. Carbon is the basic food for soil microbes. Compost contains a lot of available carbon, and can be made into a tea to mix with the surfactant. But what may be the best and most concentrated source of carbon is a substance called Humic Acid. The benefits of humic acid on normal soils are many, but when you combine humic acids with a good soil surfactant, clay soils will achieve these benefits much more rapidly.

You can add trace elements, hormones, plant growth stimulators (all found in kelp), molasses, enzymes and even beneficial root fungi to a liquid aeration solution. You can add fish emulsion if you want to fertilize a bit at the same time and don't mind the odor. When the soil is treated with a surfactant all of these things will work much better.

The worse the clay, the more often you will initially need to apply your liquid aeration. Due to the magnetic-like nature of microscopic clay particles, they will always want to re-bond. You need to keep them separated long enough for the microbes to generate and begin forming humus and soil granulation. For bad clays we suggest monthly applications, with perhaps 2 the first month. Keep this up and eventually you'll start to see obvious changes occurring in such things as drainage, root depth, soil structure and color too. Continued applications should work deeper and deeper into the ground. You can gradually decrease applications down to once or twice a year (clay always wants to re-bond) once the soil has improved to your satisfaction.

Know more about Lawn Clay and Liquid Fertilizer at NaturesLawn.Com.

Volkswagen Polo

There's something just a little bit special about the Volkswagen's Polo. Those clever men and women behind such iconic and era defining vehicles as the Beetle and the Golf GTi certainly have a knack for making compact cars. When the air-cooled engine of the beetle became superseded by more modern, water-cooled powerplants, and when the Golf began to grow bloated and put on weight with each successive iteration, the engineers at VW found themselves once again with a supermini-shaped hole and without a supermini-shaped peg to plug it with.  
Cue the Polo. Legend has it, marketing chiefs at Volkswagen chose the name 'Polo' because, like 'Golf', it is a sport widely associated with a social upper-class; and while the original Mk1 Polo may have looked up rather than lived up to those lofty connotations, I can happily inform you  
that the opposite is in fact true of the current model.

I am not trying to say that the new Polo has suddenly appeared, well-built and sophisticated, after so many years of mediocrity within an oversaturated market. Rather, the car before us today is the product of those many years devoted to refining the original car.  
That's not to say that it's been an entirely plush ride either: the engineers from Wolfsburg seemingly ignored some of basic principles of automotive design and construction when they built their third sub-compact car, however today's Polo stands testament to both the successes the marque has enjoyed, and also to those failings suffered over the course of its lifetime. From the woeful build quality of the cars first off the production line, to the exhilaration of the record-breaking, supercharged MkII G40 variant; the current car really does feel like it has learned from every lesson.

Driving a first-generation Polo was my first ever experience in driving a car. I drove figure-eights in a good friends field and in spite of the fact that under my command the universal joint on the steering column failed, we remain friends to this day. Even with my youthful exuberance, I found it hard to find merit in the car. Most people, when asked to recall their first driving experience, talk of the liberty and exhilaration of the experience. I on the other hand, am more likely to mention the cramped interior or the sluggish 1100cc engine. Bear in mind these are the  
observations of a fifteen year old!

However, every time the Polo had a makeover or a revision, the same Volkswagen engineers that had fumbled the ball during the car's initial production, found ways to make up for their miscalculations. And they kinda over compensated...The MkII G40 I mentioned earlier displaced just 1300cc but generated 115bhp. It reached 62mph in an impressive 8.1 seconds and could achieve a top speed of 122mph. Since the G40, Polo's have been quick.  
The MkIIIF had an entirely galvanised body and chassis mated with an over-engineered electrics and engine management system. I once installed aftermarket door speakers in a modern Japanese supermini, and the door cards were made of pressed plastic and behind them the door panel itself was made of what appeared to be wafer-thin tin. I did the same to my Polo GTi manufactured in the same year, and the corresponding door card was made out of a super-dense fibreboard with a plastic and fabric external covering and a medium-density foam internal filling to act as a sound dampener. Since the MkIII, Polo's have been reliable and well built.  
And now we're on the MkIV, which is in fact approaching the end of its production cycle. With the next model scheduled to debut at the Geneva motor show later on this year, I wonder what we'll say its contribution to the Polo legacy has been. Will we say 'since the MkIV, Polo's have been economical and environmentally responsible? The Polo BlueMotion would have it so. With a 1.4l diesel engine which returns up to 72mpg while outputting just 99 grams of CO2, it's certainly possible.

 

Definitely for sure though, right now, with a new version on the horizon, there are some exceptional deals to be had throughout
the current Polo
range. From humble beginnings, the current Polo has evolved into a sophisticated and distinguished car.
About the Author

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What engines will fit into a MK1 GOLF?

I have recently aquired a Golf GTI Cabrolet. But it's engine is almost ruined. I know that Impreza engines will almost sit perfectly into Beetles and wondered if there was a kit that i could do something simular, with another near new engine.

And if i got a right-off new car, how would i wire up the ecu, ect.

If you are unfamiliar with mechanics i wouldn't attempt a swap of epic preportions. Then again almost any swap you are going to come across is going to be over the majorities head.

I have seen a VR6 in early model VW's, not sure about the MK1. I have seen in person a Audi 1.8T in a MK1 GTi, this vehicle was CRAZY, tons of HP and TQ for such a light car. But you will be going from an 8 valve to a modern engine.

My best advise would be to go to VWvortex and search your brains out, and when you get tired of searching, search even more, you will find what you need, if not then you can ask. Remeber it is always better to search merceresly then ask.

Good Luck

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