Car And Truck Brake Parts

Master Cylinder

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Master Cylinder
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Proper grounding of stock car electronics is a critical to winning races. All ground connections should contact bare metal. Powder coating and anodizing both act as insulators preventing a good connection. Not only must the block be grounded, but the cylinder heads must be separately grounded as well. Whether you call it a brain, MSD, black box, amplifier, box, or ignition box, it must have a common ground with the rest of the car and electrical system. If the ignition coil is an E-core design, the coil bracket must be grounded. Make sure that the starter solenoid is grounded. Some solenoids have a dedicated ground wire, but most ground through the mounting bracket.

You should have a 1/4" ground stud welded to the chassis in an easily accessible location near the starter solenoid. This is a common ground junction point for the engine, cylinder heads, ignition, tach, driver coolers, and all blowers. It may be prettier to hide junction posts and the like, but when you are in a hurry trying to fix a problem, accessibility is essential. By making the ground stud 1/4" and using 1/4" ring connectors on all ground wires, you cannot mistakenly put a ground wire on a hot power source. Both the Master disconnect and the starter solenoid studs are 5/16" or larger.

The steering wheel stop switch should be connected in line from the ignition On-Off switch and the Ignition box. Some people who run MSD ignition boxes may use the points trigger wire and the stop switch to complete a circuit to ground. Their logic is "that if the switch fails, the car will still run." Logically, if a switch fails, it has a 50-50 chance of failure in either position. A quality switch assembly will prevent failure. The main reason from an electrical/electronic standpoint to interrupt the power from the ignition switch is to reduce radio interference. The wire from the ignition switch only carries 5-10 milliamps whereas the points wire carries many times that amount since its designed purpose was to carry to the points enough energy to burn through any oil film or moisture on the point surfaces and trigger the box. Always try to separate the PTT coiled cable and the Stop Switch coiled cable.

The master switch should be on the POSITIVE side of the battery circuit. Electronic devices including the tachometer, Ignition box, and alternator all take a very small electrical pulse and amplify it with transistors and other electronic components, to the point where the signal is strong enough to control the ignition output or other related functions. Electron flow needs to be shut off on the POSITIVE side to prevent a potentially harmful backup of electrical energy. Under a no load, condition when everything is shut off, it is acceptable to disconnect the NEGATIVE wire first. Interrupting the current flow by switching batteries via the ground cable, or otherwise shutting off the negative flow may cause electronic components to fail.

Known as "Mr. Wizard" around the NASCAR circuit for his vast electronic and mechanical expertise, Nelson Crozier can be found at NASCAR Cup race sites serving as a consultant and troubleshooter extraordinaire for race teams. Current estimates are that nearly eighty-percent of the teams in NASCAR's top racing divisions use Nelson Specialties' equipment or services in some capacity. Nelson is a master at getting to the core of a tough problem, and supplying a common sense solution that leaves everyone scratching their heads and saying "Why didn't I think of that?" Mr. Crozier can be reached at ncrozier@earthlink.net

Introduction to Your Car's Brake Master Cylinder

When you press down on your car's brake pedal, the calipers squeeze the pads against the rotors to slow your vehicle. The pads wear down over time and need to be replaced. The rotors can eventually develop hard spots and other irregularities, and need to be smoothed. This is the extent to which most people think of their car's brake system. Many are unaware regarding the role played by the master cylinder.

Your vehicle's master cylinder (MC) is responsible for transferring the force of your foot on the brake pedal to the calipers. This article will describe how the component works. I'll also explain some of the factors that can cause wear and tear, and briefly describe the steps involved with installing a replacement.

How The Component Works

There are actually two master cylinders within a single housing. The purpose of this design was to provide an alternative means of stopping your car in the event one of the MCs failed. This rarely happens. Today's vehicles are equipped with MCs that are durable and often last the lifetime of the car.

The component works as the result of hydraulic pressure. When you press down on the brake pedal, a push rod outfitted with primary and secondary pistons is pushed forward. This forward motion places pressure against the fluid inside the MC. This pressure moves the fluid through a network of brake lines to each of your wheels where they actuate the calipers.

The above process works because brake fluid cannot be compressed. It can only be displaced. This is the reason your foot's force is transferred so effectively from the brake pedal to your wheels.

Air In The Assembly

The master cylinder's main enemy is air, which gains entry due to leaks. Because air can be compressed, its presence in the assembly prevents proper displacement of the brake fluid. When you press down on the pedal, you'll notice the pedal travels further down than normal. This is known as extended travel.

Normally, when there is no air in the system, the brake pedal will spring back to its original position when it is released. This is due to the displaced fluid rushing back to the MC. When air is present, you'll notice it takes longer for the pedal to return. This often causes the pads to drag on the rotors.

Factors That Cause Wear

Besides air, master cylinders are also susceptible to wearing. The pistons and bore can become worn over time, especially if the majority of your driving takes place on surface streets. When these smaller parts wear down, they become less capable of producing the pressure needed to displace the fluid. This prevents your brake system from operating as efficiently as it should.

One last note regarding the life of your master cylinder. It's not uncommon for an MC to last over 100,000 miles in one vehicle and only 60,000 miles in another. The reason for the disparity is usually due to the type of driving in which you're engaged. If you spend most of your time on freeways, the master cylinder will be under less strain. As a result, it will last longer.

When A Replacement Is Necessary

If the pistons and bore are worn, you'll need to replace the component. After you identify it near the firewall on the driver's side, drain the fluid. Next, disconnect the fluid level sensor connector and the brake lines. The sensor can be disconnected by hand. The lines require a special wrench.

The master cylinder is held securely in place by mounting bolts. You'll need a socket wrench to remove them. Once you have removed the bolts and set them aside, the MC should easily slip off the studs. Install the replacement, tighten the bolts, and secure the lines and sensor connector. Lastly, refill the reservoir and bleed the system.

The master cylinder is a critical part of your braking system. While it should last the lifetime of your vehicle, it may need to be replaced due to wearing. If that's the case, you can easily do the job yourself with a few tools and a little patience.

About the Author

For all your used auto parts and used transmissions needs consider the leader in parts, Everdrive.com

How much does a master cylinder cost?

How much does a master cylinder cost without counting in mechanics putting it on. How much does the part alone cost?

For a nissan sentra 2000. And is there only one master cylinder?

You can find out exact prices online. Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, Oreileys Auto parts and N.A.P.A. all have websites where you can print off prices.

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