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Olds Cutlass

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Olds Cutlass
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The first thing you must do when you buy a car is to determine a price that is suitable. Preset a spending limit based on your ability to spend money. Secondly... have the kind of vehicle in mind that you want to buy. Is it a 2 door, 4 door, 2 seater, convertible, pick up truck, full size or short box, etc..

Now you can start looking. Swap sheets are good but sometimes you can find a good deal sitting in front of someone's house. For instance I found a 1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme; it was just in someone's driveway with no plates. There was no for sale sign on it, I just knocked on the door and started my conversation with the owner. The next thing I know, I am the proud owner of that Cutlass (no dents, rust, scratches or large amounts of wear) for around 700 dollars.

Another less unethical way of acquiring a cheap vehicle is to offer a trade. Up north, most take ATV's and snowmobiles as viable trades. Sometimes even another vehicle if the condition is what they are looking for. It's all about topography and learning where you are and what people like wherever that is.

The trick is to make the current owner think he or she is making a great deal for themselves, and with the economy like it is, just about any kind of money for something that old is a great deal on their behalf. But there are still newer cars that are great on gas that most would love to own. Bring up safety issues such as the size of the car, how well would it do in a crash, how expensive is it to have the vehicle serviced when required, how much are new tires, and the like.

Keep a close eye out for damage such as a rotting frame or sub frame as these problems will deter any reputable registered inspection shop from inspecting your vehicle. It's required in most states in order to register and insure the vehicle. So be wary and on your toes, buying a car - even from a single owner - can be a headache but it can be done.

Bond Mejeh produces automotive related articles for Quick Cash Auto, a cash for cars service. Quick Cash Auto not only buys pre-owned vehicles of any year, make or model, but they also provide numerous articles about vehicle repair and automotive news.

Please visit http://www.QuickCashAuto.com for more information and be sure to check out our automotive blog.

Prepping Your Boat For Spring Launch

Ready … Set … Go Boating

Ice and snow recedes and Spring returns to the "northerner" boating areas of the U.S. If you are a Michigan or Great Lakes boater, you are anxious to get the next boating season started. As you look forward to that first fine weekend at the dock or on the lake, spend some time on pre-season preventative maintenance that can help make your entire summer more enjoyable.

A big key to your spring maintenance is determined by how the boat was stowed away for the winter. If you tucked your boat away dry, indoors or with a good cover, properly winterized, clean and uncluttered with batteries disconnected, systems drained and fluids changed, then you'll have less to conquer in the Spring. Let's pretend you did all the right things in the Fall and focus on some extra ideas that could help get your season off on the right foot. You may want to get together with the Service Manager at your local full service marina for his advice and to schedule needed work before the shop's schedule fills up.

How did you cover your boat? If you are outdoors and shrink-wrapped, please be sure to work with your boat yard or local recycling center for environmentally-friendly disposal of your shrink-wrap. This plastic is indeed recyclable and you can do your part by keeping it out of the landfill – don't throw it in the dumpster. Many boat yards and shoreline communities have recycling programs.

Now that the cover is off, perform your own inspection of deck and underwater hardware and the hull, bottom and deck conditions. Check bow rail stanchions that may have worked loose under the cover and re-bed those if needed, properly sealed to prevent moisture intrusion. Check all other deck fittings – cleats, chocks, drains and more – to make sure they are properly caulked. Spend extra time on areas at or below the waterline, such as trim tab and swim platform mounts, transducer and pump thru-hulls, raw-water pick-ups and other areas that should be inspected yearly for proper seal. Long-term weeping of moisture past those seals can soak coring materials in your transom or hull, causing larger problems later. When in doubt, caulk it.

How does your bottom look? A fresh coat of paint makes fall grime removal easier and improves running efficiency during the season. Sand flaked areas and apply a thin coat of fresh bottom paint before launch. If the bottom has excessive build-up or unmanageable flaking, you should consult your boat yard about a strip and repaint job. If you take it down to bare gelcoat, be sure to properly prepare the surface before re-applying your barrier coat and bottom paint.

Think back to last season for a mental review of some of your boat's components.

How old are your batteries? If you can't remember when they were last changed, check the labeled date or your receipt file. Don't put last year's trouble-maker back in the boat. Replace it. A dead battery at the launch ramp or pulling anchor off the beach can be a day-spoiler.

When was your last oil & filter change? Boaters are split about 50-50 on their preferences for Fall or Spring oil changes. But by all means, start the new season with "fresh" oil, whether it was poured in October or April. And don't forget your mid-season change or at the next 50 engine hours, whichever comes first.

When did you last change impellers? Water pump impellers tend to shrink or become brittle over time and lose their effectiveness. Don't run hot — change your impellers to prevent a problem, before launch.

If your boat is a stern drive, when was your last stern drive service? Drive service should be performed yearly prior to launch, to prevent costly failures later. If your boat is an inboard, when did you last have your shafts aligned? This can only be done after launch, but should be done yearly to help reduce coupler, shaft and cutlass bearing wear. If you noticed any vibration last season, you should be checking alignment and props before launch. For inboard boaters as well, spring launch is the right time to inspect shaft packings. If your shaft is dripping more frequently than 10 drops per minute, your shaft log needs to be tightened or repacked. Don't let water run into your bilge from leaky shaft seals. Tighten or replace as needed.

Upon launch, immediately check for any leaks from through hulls and check all engine hoses and belts while the engine is running. Tighten clamps as needed and plan to replace any suspect hoses. Carefully monitor engine temperature during that first start up to make sure that your engine's cooling system is functioning and check other critical gauges – oil pressure, alternator output – to ensure your engine is running properly before you get under way. Before getting away from the dock for the first time, briefly and carefully shift into forward and reverse while tied-off to make sure the engine does not stall and moves properly in and out of gear. If your boat is trailerable, you can perform many of these tasks with the aid of a garden hose and engine intake muffs. See your marine technician for advice.

Your boat is for your enjoyment and maintenance need not be expensive. In fact, proper maintenance is much less expensive than neglected maintenance. See your local full service marina or marine supply store for more helpful service suggestions. And have a great boating season!

About the Author

Tighe Curran is the General Manager of Pier 33 a Michigan Boat Dealership. Tighe and his team of highly experienced boating experts provide the greater Midwest area with the best services in regards to new Chaparral boats, used boat sales, docking services, boat repairs and boating accessories. Check out www.Pier33.com today to see a listing of boats for sale, expert boating insight and marina information.

Where is the O2 sensor in 1999 olds cutlass?

I am trying to locate an O2 sensor in 1999 olds cutlass. Please help me.

Most O2 sensors are located on the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter. Some cars have two, one before and one after the catalytic converter.

Good Luck.

Buzzcocks Play Through Bomb Scare in New York
Filed under: Concerts and Tours , News , Holy Hell There were two good reasons to stay through the end of Thursday's Buzzcocks show at the Fillmore New York at Irving Plaza. First, the English band, now it its fourth decade, was killing -- speeding like teenagers through the entirety of its first two albums, late-'70s landmarks that set the template for much of today's pop-punk. Also, the venue ...

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