Car And Truck Brake Parts

Pads Chevrolet

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Pads Chevrolet
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Automobiles are currently being produced with levels of quality only dreamed about 20 years ago. New quality control methods have combined with computer design to produce the best vehicles ever driven by Americans. Even with these new levels of quality, shops still stay full and consumers still collectively shell out billions of dollars on an annual basis for automobile repair. There is a way to save on auto repair without skimping. That way is with used parts.

The bigger the part, the bigger the savings.

The two biggest items you can save money on when you purchase them used are engines and transmissions. Typically, you can buy a used engine or transmission for 30-70% of what a dealer or major re manufacturer would charge you. Transfer cases, rims, and miscellaneous parts also carry big savings, as do engine bolt on accessories like alternators, power steering pumps, a/c compressors, and starters. The great thing about a used part vs. a new aftermarket part is that the used parts are OEM. OEM stands for "Original Equipment Manufacturer." When you purchase an OEM part, you're getting exactly the same specification part that went into your vehicle when it was originally being made on the assembly line. It's what was intended to be in your vehicle, and it is going to be your best fit and typically your best performing part option.

When purchasing a used part, there can be some drawbacks though. You want to purchase from a legitimate supplier that tests their parts and offers a parts warranty. Remember, the goal of purchasing used OEM parts is to save money, not create a headache! Also, keep in mind that you never want to purchase normal maintenance parts used. Break pads, rotors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, windshield wipers, oil filers, etc., are designed to be replaced. If your part isn't designed to be with the vehicle until the vehicle goes off the road, you don't want to buy it used.

Any time you purchase a used engine or transmission, you should ask for mileage verification. If the company you're purchasing your engine from won't provide you a free CARFAX to verify the mileage on any used engine originally from the US or Canada, chances are that they are lying to you on the mileage on the part, and thus on the condition of the part. Further, if they lie to you before the sale, chances are that they will not honor their parts warranty.

Next, make sure that your mechanic is experienced working with used parts. There are mechanics, and then there are parts swappers. A mechanic will be able to take a used part and properly install it, making minor swaps as necessary for your application. A parts swapper will only want a "new part" because there is often less work involved for them. Avoid that type of mechanic.

Finally, make sure that everyone in the picture - namely your parts suppliers and your mechanic - are accredited by the Better Business Bureau. This final check can keep you from dealing with a scoundrel who will take your money and do a poor job for you.

Follow these steps, and you can save money by purchasing used engines, used transmissions, and other used parts.

J. W. McBride has worked in the automotive industry for five years. He loves to save customers money by helping them find used parts. His favorite engines to sell are used Toyota engines, used Chevy engines, and used BMW engines. When not writing or helping customers, he enjoys reading.

Chevrolet Casting Numbers and RPO Codes Defined Learn All About the Identification Of Your Car

I get a lot of people looking for information about their casting numbers, and RPO codes at my blogs, so I figured that it was about time that I demystified them a bit, since I have never written an article dealing with just this issue, I hope it helps you get your questions answered.

I will discuss Chevrolet, casting numbers and RPO codes in this article, and we’ll start with Chevrolet, a Chevrolet RPO code hols a lot of vital information about your car, and along with your vin you should decode your RPO and casting identification also.

They are two totally different things, you RPO code is located on a machined pad on the engine block, just in front of the passenger head, and your casting identification is located at the back of the engine block on the driver side and top the the transmission mount.

Your casting number will tell you the engine size, what model of car it was installed in; horsepower ratings, and the transmission that was installed, some of the this are fairly basic, but it does tell you the beginning of the information on your engine.

Lets take a casting number like 3970010 this engine block when decoded could have come from a few different cars, and you’ll need to compare it to the RPO code to figure out what it is, for this article we’ll say that it came from a 1969 Z/28 camaro.

The casting identification indicates that it’s is a 302 CID engine that’s rated at 290 HP, and it was built in 1969, and it’s a four bolt main block from a late model 1969 Z/28 camaro, and this is a good starting place, it give you a good foundation to build on.

There are a few things that you need to know about the next step, and that step is to decode your RPO code to see if they match, the first things that you need to look at is the suffix code from the RPO, or the last tow or three letters, in this case the last two letters.

If your trying to determine if the engine belongs in your 1969 Z/28 camaro, the last two letter in the RPO code should be DZ, if they are any other letters, the engine does not belong to your late model 1969 Z/28 camaro.

The other thing to be aware of is that people who like to scam other people may change the RPO code to make it look like it matches a certain car, just pay close attention to the stamping, make 100% sure that it looks like the factory stamped it, if there is any doubt, have a machine shop look in to it for you.

The other two things that an RPO code will tell you, are the date that the engine was manufactured, and the plant that it was manufactured in, which should match the plant that the car was built in, if it doesn’t, it’s time to be suspicious.

I know that I have concentrated on the camaro here, but all of Chevrolet’s code on their cars work the same way, I have used a camaro because I know the most about camaros, I have studied them all though, the numbers will decode like this on any older Chevrolet.

I have decoded huge amounts of Corvettes also, and they work the same, all of the Chevrolet products, from 1965 – 1973 use the same system, I haven’t looked at the newer models, so I can’t profess to know about them, but I have done my research on 1965 - 1973 model years.

About the Author

I've been in the automotive business for about 20 or 25 years, I have worked in all facets of the industry, from parts to restoration, all different makes and models, I just want to keep people interested in the old cars because it's where my heart is.

• Chevrolet Casting Numbers

My Brakes will not stop screeching when i come to a stop?

Hi i just bought a 2003 chevrolet monte carlo SS, it was fine up until i heard the brakes. After about 5mins. of being on the road my brakes will begin to give off an ear piercing screech at each stop. The brakes looked pretty new so i thought i would give it a couple weeks for them to break in. That didn't work. I brought the car to the dealer in which i bought it at and they said they would clean them and we'll see what will happen. That didn't work. The dealerships remark to me was "there isn't really a way to fully deplete the noise, its just one of those things that you can't get rid of". I know there has to be some way to get rid of the noise. If there are any mechanics that have some advice on different brake pads or something i could buy for them that would be great. Thanks.

Sure there's away. It's sounds like you just need to buy new break pads all together. That's what happened to an old 93 Chevy I owned. And the problem was fixed by doing just that. Anything can be fixed by replacing it. (anything mechanically)

1999 Chevrolet Blazer LT from North America - Comments
1999 4DR 4WD Blazer bought with ~6000 miles on it in 2000. Pretty much trouble-free since then, did have to replace one wheel bearing at ~60K and get the drivers door hinge repaired (under ext warranty).

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