Car And Truck Brake Parts

Power Brake

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Power Brake
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1. All wheels locked. It is very common and it is a killer.

The came: Foot clamped on the brake pedal too hard and too abruptly. Car may start to skid in straight line, but can spin out as road crown upsets its balance or the road offers uneven friction to the tires.

What to do: Release your brakes instantly. Get your car going straight. Stab-brake in quick jabs. Never let a spin-out begin.

2. Front wheels locked. The safest skid if there a safest at all.

The cause: You brake, and the front wheels, on a slick spot on the road, lock; while the rear wheels brake normally; or the front brakes are set up tighter than the rear ones. You will skid in a straight line because the rear wheels (not locked) act as a rudder to prevent a spin- unless you are in a turn. But you won't be able to change direction as long as the front wheels of the automobile are locked.

What to do: Release your brakes to recover steering control. Then stab brake to slow down.

3. Rear wheels locked. This one is a real killer because it usually comes at slow speeds.

The cause: You've jammed on your brakes. Your car tries instantly to switch ends. This may be for any one of the following reasons:

1. Your rear brakes have been set up tighter than the front-wheel brakes.

2. You have applied your brakes just as you have come off a slick spot-in both cases, the rear wheels lock while the front ones continue to roll.

What to do: Release the brakes and counter steer fast. In any of these situations, never, never apply power.

4. Power skid. You're more likely to be prepared for this one because you know you are behaving foolishly.

The cause: On a slight curve, or going into a mild skid, you apply power suddenly. This can turn a mild skid into a deadly spin. Power skids also occur in rain, and on snow and ice, when you hit the accelerator from a standing start.

What to do: Get your foot off the gas.

5. Sharp-curve skid. A nasty surprise when you find yourself in a curve that's sharper than you thought.

The cause: Such skids have nothing to do with braking or wheel lockup. They are the result simply of too much speed and centrifugal force. The faster you go- the less stability your car has. At 70, there is little frictional stability. At 80, you might as well be on slick snow. The curve makes some cars pivot on their front wheels.

What to do: Try guiding your car into an unpowered controlled drift. Make the front wheels stay ahead of the rear ones. Stay off the brake and accelerator.

6. The combination skid. This is composed of a sharp-curve loss of traction in the rear, plus a power skid.

The cause: It is what happens when you get scared on the turn as your rear end loses traction and you hit the accelerator.

What to do: Actually, there is little you can do. Keep your feet off the pedals. Counter steer and hope.

7. Hydroplane skid: Another sneaky one.

The cause: Loss of control on water as little as Ys inch deep. At 60 m.p.h., in 1/2-inch of water, tires lose all road contact. At this point, any turn-even a sharp gust-can start a skid and spin.

What to do: Counter steer. Always remember that skids can be caused by rain-and slow down.

Allen writes on different topics at his auto related blog where he advices people how to maintain and fix their cars [http://carmaintenanceguide.net/common-problems-and-fixes] themselves so they can run longer

The Important Role Of Disk Brakes

Disc brakes perform the most important task on your vehicle that is it ensures that you can stop when you want to. You may have a two wheeler, a four wheeler or even a massive heavy vehicle, but the fact remains that in all of these, you will probably find a disc brake for sure. There are two main types of brakes that are used in vehicles, the disc brakes and the drum brakes, but the disc brakes are way more popular due to its superior efficiency and powerful braking especially during the wet conditions.

To state in a very easy way, a disc brake consists of two pads that clasps a rotor, which is actually nothing but a rotating disc, connected to the wheels of the vehicle through an axle. When we press on the brakes, we are actually controlling the clasping power of the clamp. On pressing the brakes, the pads or clamps come together to stop the rotor from spinning and that in turn slows down and stops the vehicle ultimately.

Pull up on the emergency brake or just press on the brake pedal to use the disc brakes for stopping your car, but if you are riding a motorbike, then it may not be so easy. You would be required to press the right hand lever and the rear left foot lever together in a motorbike in order to stop it with more efficiency and also to prolong the life of the brakes due to less strain.

As with any other motor parts, you will need to maintain brakes as well, and mind you, the brakes are the most important part of your car that you should maintain well and check up on regularly. Check to make sure that the brake pads are thick enough as bare pads will cause the disc brake damage and you do not want that. Check to see if the brake fluid is up to its rim in the reservoir, if it is not then refill it to the rim as that will not only help your brakes efficiency, but also increase the life of your brakes.

With the first signs of cracking or scarring, you should see a qualified professional for maintenance of your disc brakes because if you do not, and the disc brakes crack up, then they can not be repaired and must be totally replaced. Maintain them well and regularly to prolong the lives of your vehicles disc brakes.

Disc brakes were earlier made totally out of steel, but with the modern days upon us, there are disc brakes these days that have strategic hallowed out areas which allow the extra heat that is generated, to escape through them. This is actually a great innovation that has reduced the chances of warping of the brakes due to excessive heat generation and therefore increased the disc brakes service period. As days pass, newer designs are arriving and will keep arriving, they will be targeting to get the brakes work more efficiently and also, last longer in the process.

About the Author

Sam Otoner is an author writing about automotive related topics, and you are invited to visit his website covering number of aspects about disk brakes.

Power brake booster makes loud creaking noise when brakes are applied?

1983 Ford F150 4WD,302 engine with power brakes. The power brake booster unit was replaced about 2 years ago with a rebuilt one. Truck driven less than 3000 miles since. When brakes are applied, a loud creaking noise appears to be coming from the end of the power booster where the pedal rod connects. The master cylinder is not leaking fluid into the booster unit.
Is their anything to lubricate on the pedal end of the booster? It is covered by a cap which requires the unit to be off the vehicle to inspect. Dont want to spend the effort to remove if nothing to lubricate.

have you check to see if the brake rod going thru the fire wall is rubbing on the fire wall.there is a rubber grumet that goes on the hole in the fire wall they could have knock it off when they installed the power booster.

Lodi car repair shop paying $250,000 to settle suit
Brake-O-Rama to pay $250,000 to settle charges it billed customers for work that was not done

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