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Rod Adjustable

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Rod Adjustable
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Little Known Features Of Guitar Designs - What On Earth Are Truss Rods?

If you talk to a guitar enthusiast it may well be that they have heard of truss rods, and may even be capable of showing you where their truss rod is to be found, but to the average person or beginner, most people would be hard pressed to know whether their guitar even had a truss rod. So what is this feature, and what does it do? First of all, if we think about the problem that may be caused by not having a truss rod, then we can see where its role fits in.

A guitar has a long neck, the fret board, up which runt eh strings. It is this long board which is used by the secondary hand to press the strings down in an arrangement which will create the chord to be played. Typically most guitars are made of wood, and so this fret board is a long, slender wooden board. Not only that, but the fret board is under a great deal of pressure, since the strings are pulled very tightly indeed. In fact, on many guitars the strings are made from steel, and tightened quite considerably, putting the fret board under a great deal of pressure. Wood is a natural product, obviously, and so therefore prone to the same problems that all natural products suffer from, and that is aging and deterioration.

Certainly guitars, as with most wooden products, are treated carefully with sealants and varnishes to help nourish and protect the guitar for a good long life. However, with most wooden products the problem of slight warping may only lend character, for a guitar, and warping spells disaster, since the design and measurements of a guitar are very exact, to ensure that the notes are crisp, clear and accurate. Because of the length of the fret board, any warping or bending could cause the notes played to be altered quite noticeably, and so these would render the guitar useless. Not only that, but slight warping can lead to cracking, and with so much pressure on the fret board already from the strings, this would lead inevitably to breakage of the fret board completely. The truss rod, therefore, is a strong metal rod which runs up through the fret board from one end to the other, and can be tightened usually using an Allan key at the top.

This metal rod acts a little like a backbone for the fret board, meaning that aging, humidity and any other causes of natural deterioration will not result in warping or disfigurement of the fret board, helping to ensure that the notes still sound clear and accurate, and the life of the guitar is lengthened. Most classical guitars only use nylon strings, and so there is far less pressure on the fret board. For this reason, you may not always find truss rods included, but where you do find them, they can sometimes come with an extra feature which allows an alteration in the tone of the notes played to be heard. By adjusting the truss rod by turning it either clockwise or antic clockwise, the fret board can be adjusted to an angle either side of the normal centre. This can adjust the distance of the strings from the fret board, allowing a different playing method to be adopted, as well as altering the tone very slightly.

Those truss rods that allow movement in both directions are known as double truss systems. In some cases the truss rod can only be accessed by completely removing the headstock of the guitar, which is the part at the very top of the fret board, and so altering the style of the guitar is something done only very rarely.

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Victor Epand is an expert consultant for electric guitars, steel string guitars, double truss guitars. You can find the best marketplace at these sites for electric guitars, steel string guitars, double truss guitars, sheet music, guitar tab, and home theater audio.

I have a 1980 Johnson 60 HP engine I need to know how to syncronize my throttle cam to my timing? ?

I have set max timing to 21 deg. as per manual. I have sync. cam to cam follower(is described in manual). Manual does not describe how to sync. throttle cam to timing(has an adjustable rod)!!!
Timing set at idle with timing rod disconnect from throttle and manual advanced to stop used timing light on #1 cyl. and adjusted stop to get 21 deg. My understanding is this engine has no mechanical advance like a car(or vacuam advance)so it shouldn't matter rpm when set like this. Please advise if correct? Engine never revved over 1500 rpm.

How did you set the WOT timing? It has to be running in gear at full throttle in a test tank with a test wheel, or else it'll be considerably retarded when you try to run it with a load on it.

If you were running it full throttle on muffs, you took a chance of experiencing "thermal runaway"; without the backpressure on the underwater exhaust the engine is competely unloaded. Bits of burning carbon in the cylinders can preignite the fuel/air charge causing RPMs to race way beyond it's design capabililty; all you can do is disconnect the fuel and hope the carbs run dry before the motor literally tears itself apart.

There is a procedure for setting WOT timing at cranking speed, if you need it just ask. I guess you got the TDC timing pointer adjusted ok?

If you're talking about the throttle lever to cam rod, it should be 4 31/32 inches from center of the rod retaining nut on the lever to center of yoke pin on the cam.

I don't have the step-by-step to link & sync your particular motor, but I can tell you that the cam must hit the roller right on the mark -- the roller retaining screw is mounted in a slot where it can be moved fore or aft. The throttle cable is adjusted via the trunion just inside the cowling -- set the cable to where neither the idle set screw nor wot stop screw are either so far in or so far out that there's no room for final adjustments later.

back pressure on the exhaust will lower RPMs, so add a couple hundred RPMs if setting the idle speed on muffs, and make final adjustment after you put the boat in the water.

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"My understanding is this engine has no mechanical advance "

Just to be sure: 1980 johnson 60hp, right? model # J60ELCSR, 2-stroke, 2 cylinders, 2 carbs, electronic ignition?

When you said "adjustable rod" I thought you meant the lever-to-cam rod. the timing rod isn't supposed to be adjustable -- it links the top of the throttle lever to the timer base -- that's your mechanical spark advance. It rotates the timer base forward when the throttle is advanced.

Go to http://shop.evinrude.com click on "Electronic parts catalogue", select "johnson" in the drop down box, drill down to 1980/60hp then your model #. Click on "cylinder & crankcase". #66 on the diagram is the spark advance rod -- fixed length, not adjustable. that bushing #62 connects with #64 on the "ignition system" diagram.

Manual calls for setting WOT timing as I described above; I never heard of doing it at 1500 RPM, but that doesn't mean it's wrong necessarily. Any case, here's how to set it without starting the engine:
Spark plugs out, throttle fully open, set the timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop (wire it against that stop if necessary). Rig a spark tester with the gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Turn the engine over and set the spark advance to 17° BTDC. The engine gains 4º when it's actually running (vs. at cranking speed) - if you set it to 21º at cranking speed, the resulting pre-ignition will cause catastrophic failure for sure.

Back to your original question: adjusting the roller to hit the mark on the throttle cam is what syncs the timing to the throttle valves. The spark advance must begin before the throttles start to open, else she'll fall flat on her face when you try to accelerate.

Hope I'm not confusing you.

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(937) 510-4065. Gary, (937) 746-0526. 
www.warrencountykustoms.com.

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