Car And Truck Brake Parts

Speedo Cable

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Speedo Cable
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For some people doing maintenance on their motorcycle is something they leave to the professionals, they take their bikes into garages and get a mechanic to do the work. This is usually down to not knowing what to do to keep their bike in good shape.

While this is fine for some, you can save a lot of money buy doing the basic tasks yourself.

Take for instance a tire change. The average cost for replacing a tire can be anywhere between £30-£60 each plus the cost of the tire. That is if you take the bike to the garage and get them to take the wheel off, replace tire and reinstall.

Whereas if you take a loose wheel to them that price will drop to around £10-£15.

Taking the wheel off your bike can be daunting at first, there's axles, bearings, spacers, disc brakes etc to get confused about. But when you have done it once you will wonder why you every took it for the garage to do.

In this article I am going to concentrate on the front wheel, as there are differences in how to approach the removal of the rear.

First of all you are going to need:

- A front stand or jack that can lift the front wheel of the ground safely. (Essential)

- A selection of sockets and Allen wrenches (essential, sizes differ by bike model make sure you have them before attempting removal)

- A torque wrench

- A box that you can use to store all associated parts during removal (recommended)

- A rear stand (recommended)

The steps you will need take are as follows:

1. Removes fairings, fenders and any plastics that may be in the way.

Very simple step, most fairings are held in place by Allen bolts, just unscrew and remove anything that me impede the removal of the wheel.

2. Remove brakes.

There are two methods to this depending on if you have disc brakes, or drum brakes.

A. Disc brakes.

Remove caliper by unscrewing caliper mounts from fork legs. Gently pull the caliper away from the disc and secure with a cable tie/string as not to stress the brake hoses, repeat for second caliper.

B. Drum brakes.

Unscrew and remove linkage/cable that connects the brakes to the controls

3. Loosen the axle.

Again there are different ways to do this depending on bike.

A. If your bike has "pinch bolts" you must loosen these first. Then using correct size sockets hold one side of the axle still and loosen the other side. Do not remove yet, just loosen.

B. If your bike doesn't have pinch bolts simply loosen the axle as described above.

4. Lift the bike.

Now you need to lift the bike, weather using a front stand or a jack make sure the bike is safe and stable at all times. Only attempt on level firm ground, and once lifted secure with straps.

I also use a rear stand in this step as it keeps the bike level and more stable.

Lift the bike just until the suspension is fully unloaded you want the wheel to be just touching the floor.

5. Remove axle

YOU ARE NOW READY TO REMOVE THE AXLE, fully unscrew the axle and pinch bolts. The axle may need a slight tap with a rubber mallet to break free from the fork legs.

When it comes out you will have to catch the Speedo mechanism and any spacers that are used on the front wheel. Make sure you know which ones fit were.

The front wheel should now roll out.

You are now free to do maintainance on the front wheel without being charged mechanics fees.

Change tires, brake discs, bearings, whatever you choose.

To install the wheel simply do these steps backwards making sure all bolts are torque to factory settings (user manual for our machine has details)

Tips

- Clean and sand off any corrosion on the wheel spacers before reinstalling, it not only makes you bike look better but it removes the chance of foreign objects entering your bearings.

- Right down descriptions of parts removed and were they go.

- Keep parts in separate sections of a little box.

- If you don't have a box, replace the axle onto the fork legs with the right parts in the right order while the wheel is off.

Clean all parts thoroughly before replacing wheel, grit and dirt are your bearings worst enemy.

For more motorcycle information, products, and tips visit http://www.hyosung-gtr.com/

$ 2,500 DIY a Car

Tired of high gas prices? For $2,500 and 1,000 hours, you can build a car that gets 100 miles to the gallon.

In the upper picture, I am having my moment of truth: Once I cut this frame, there will be no turning back.  Please imagine me wearing the necessary safety glasses and ear protection. 

In the lower picture, my wooden stand is holding the forks in their desired position.  I'm trying to figure out how to build the main connecting chassis: Shall I use more 2" round tube like the scooter frame?  No!  Not strong enough.

You can see the original honda handlebars being tried out for position, and also Honda's  wonderful variable speed drive, using a ribber belt with spring-loaded pulleys.

 

In the upper picture, you see that cold groundhog day in Maine after three months of building.  I clamped a plank on the frame to sit on, had all the electrics rigged up in the original way, set up a forward foot rest using conduit coming forward from the frame, hung with red straps, connected the speedo to the handlebars, and with my warmest clothing on, slowly headed out of the driveway.  GASP!   But this experience was such a helpful inspiration to the next frustrating months of bodybuilding.

In the lower photo, the white panels of the overhead door are done, but the windows must be sculpted once the position of the lower edges are decided upon.  Yet this cannot be done without some idea of the rear panels.  I felt the car would look better if the rear panels had some upward flow, rather than downward.   Note the child's car seat I used for the testing.  It says "60 pounds max".   Actually quite comfortable...

In this lower photo you can see the white 'steering plates' which are welded to the front on the motorscooter forks  and through which the "heim"  ball-joint fittings are bolted.

In the upper picture, you can see just how many clamps it takes to bend a lexan panel in place,  all without scratching anything too much.  Once the panel is thoroughly in place, you can drill, tap, countersink for the 6-32 flathead SS screws.  When all are ready,  the panel is removed, silicone caulk is applied, and the whole thing finally screwed down and excess caulk removed.  Screw holes are also caulked.  You can  see that seating experiments were also going on: a rather minimalist plank and bungecords used as a backrest.  Not enough comfort!

In the lower picture, you see some bald guy bending the 1.5" wide by eighth-inch thick flatbar, which will be the forward frame of the overhead door,  using the forward arch as a form for the bending.  A small piece of conduit is used to help the bending.  Be sure to overbend the arch, so it is sprung in place when attached.  Otherwise the sides will bow outward and let in weather.  This picture, of course, was taken before the picture above.

In this photo you can  see the motorcycle steering head, with the excess shaft sawed off.  This will eventually disappear behind the black side panels with the moonbeam logo, which you see on the home page. I didn't want to mess with the widely-spaced steering head bearings.

Behind, you see the rear portion of the second scooter which was not needed and  resold on E-bay.

This photo is looking forward from the driver's seat.  It's a good view of the back-to-back "Heim" fittings which go from the steering arm below the handlebars out in opposite directions to each wheel.  You can also see some of the 2" flatbar welded between the two forward frame members to be junctions of the plastic body panels.  You can see the 4" automotive headlights jammed into 4" rubber pipe couplings as a nice simple way to mount headlight bulbs.  You can see the steering post , wrapped in black tape to minimize glare, coming out of the front frame member to give the maximum footroom to the passenger.

Here you see the right handlebar brake caliper.  The  original cable attachment has been doubled for the second front wheel.  The orange engine kill switch will eventually be a switch for the wipers.   Everything has black electrical tape on it to cut down the glare in the windshield.

Here you see routine maintenance going on through the removeable rear panel.  The white panel is to my right, and the engine surround panel, with its soundproofing is leaning against it.  I am replacing the cover for the variable speed drive, having checked the drive belt for wear prior to the drive to Boston.   That belt, even with the greater load of a larger vehicle, wears very slowly.  The service interval is 15,000 miles!  It would be hard to change on the open road, though, since you need a wheel puller.

 It takes less than 5 minutes to access either side of the engine.

In this picture, you are the driver.  You can see the heater off to the left, the wiper motor, the Honda speedometer cluster, and two toggle switches.  These control the headlights, and the heater vs. defroster choice.  Where the steering rods go through the side panels, there are stretched inner-tube rubbers to minimize road splash.

Here you see the canopy closed, and my coveted inspection sticker stuck on the windshield.  Moonbeam  looks fairly respectable from this angle.  My original name was " l'oeuf roulant", the rolling egg.

Moonbeam is easy to get into.  The center strut is offset to the right which makes it easier to enter from the left.  The seat, though, is pretty low, and not too cushy.  My 92-year-old mother thinks it needs more foam.

Here the canopy is snapped in the half-open position, which is great for travel to dispell the excess heat from the heater and give a nice sunroof feeling.

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How do I replace the Speedometer cable on my Motorcycle?

I have a 1977 Yamaha XS750 and the speedo cable broke. I got it off and the bike still runs it's just that I can't ever know how fast I'm going. haha. All I need to know is how do I put a new one back on the right way and where can I get one? is there a specific type of cable I should get for my bike since it's really old?

It's a 10mn job.You just unscrew the nut at the speedo follow it down to the drive where you'll find a phillips screw.take out the screw and pull the cable out.Replace in reverse order.
You can get the cable from any Yamaha dealer for about $25.00

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